BUTTERWORTH – The irresistible aroma of curry rising from a small Muslim ‘mamak’ restaurant beneath his family’s shophouse in Butterworth once sparked the imagination of a young Datuk V. Harikrishnan.
Upstairs, he lived with his widowed mother, Radhabay Iyasamy Naidoo, a resilient woman from Taiping, and seven siblings. Their life was simple, but every day the scent of spices, fried shallots, and bubbling curries seeped through the floorboards and into his dreams.
“I used to help out downstairs washing dishes, making teh tarik,” he recalled with a smile. “Watching how people came together over food made me think: why can’t we start something of our own?”
That simple thought became the spark that led to the birth of Sri Ananda Bahwan, now one of Malaysia’s most beloved banana-leaf restaurant chains.
Tough Beginnings and Long Nights
The early years were anything but easy. Harikrishnan vividly remembered those first few years as exhausting endless hours in the kitchen, sleepless nights, and moments when the family wondered if they had made the right decision.
But as word began to spread about their rich, flavourful curries and authentic South Indian banana-leaf meals, customers started pouring in. By the mid-1990s, their humble eatery had become a local favourite.
“Business was booming by 1994,” Harikrishnan recalled. “But we faced a huge shortage of workers. When the government reviewed the foreign-worker policy in 1996, it was a godsend we were finally able to bring in more staff from India and Indonesia.”
By then, Harikrishnan and his brother V. Selvaraj were managing the business side by side, with occasional help and treasured recipes from their mother.
A Family’s Dream, Cooked with Heart
While Harikrishnan managed operations, Selvaraj was the creative force in the kitchen the chef, founder, and culinary genius behind Sri Ananda Bahwan’s signature flavours.
“People often credit me,” Harikrishnan said modestly. “But the truth is, my brother was the backbone. He’s the one who created the flavours that made people come back again and again.”
Their mother, Radhabay, was the glue that held it all together. She believed in hard work, humility, and customer service lessons she passed to all her children.
“Our mother was everything,” Harikrishnan said softly. “She always told us the customer is our priority. Without them, we’re nothing.”
From Butterworth to the Nation
What began as a single outlet in Butterworth soon expanded to Sungai Petani, Kulim, Kuala Lumpur, Pulau Pinang Island, and Ipoh Utara.
The name Sri Ananda Bahwan, meaning “House of Bliss,” was chosen to symbolise their wish that every diner would leave satisfied and happy.
More than 40 years later, the restaurant group now counts 10 outlets across Malaysia and employs over 300 staff.
At lunch hour, the scene is a perfect reflection of Malaysia’s unity Malays, Chinese, Indians, and even tourists sitting side by side, eating rice served on banana leaves with fish curry, chicken varuval, sambal squid, vegetables, and papadam.
“That’s the beauty of banana-leaf dining,” Harikrishnan said proudly. “Everyone, regardless of race or background, can sit together and share the same food. That’s Malaysia’s spirit.”
Flavours that Evolve with Time
Sri Ananda Bahwan first made its name through its authentic South Indian fare banana-leaf meals, spicy curries, and hearty vegetarian dishes. But as the years passed, its menu expanded to reflect Malaysia’s multicultural palate.
Today, diners can find not just South Indian favourites but also North Indian classics, as well as local staples like nasi lemak and mee goreng. This evolution came naturally, born from the family’s desire to keep the brand relevant while maintaining its roots.
Two years ago, the family took a bold step forward with the opening of their Macalister Road branch on Penang Island a turning point that marked the start of a multi-cuisine concept.
The branch features an extensive menu that ranges from traditional Indian dishes to Western selections and even Chinese-style cuisine, designed to cater to a broader range of customers while retaining the warmth and hospitality that define Sri Ananda Bahwan.
“We realised that families today want variety,” Harikrishnan said. “So we created a place where everyone whether they’re craving Indian curries or grilled fish and pasta can sit together and enjoy.”
The Flavours of Legacy
Among Sri Ananda Bahwan’s most iconic dishes is the ‘3-in-1 Seafood Curry’ a rich medley of squid, fish, and prawns simmered in a fragrant spice blend. Other favourites include the two-foot crispy dosai, the towering roti tisu, frothy Madras coffee, and the restaurant’s signature teh tarik.
For vegetarian diners, classics like palak paneer, dal tadka, and mixed vegetable curries remain top choices all cooked fresh daily using the same spice base their mother once prepared by hand.
“There are no shortcuts,” Harikrishnan emphasised. “Everything is cooked fresh every day the same way my mother did it.”
Beyond the restaurant business, the family has diversified into catering, retail, and even a boutique line inspired by Harikrishnan’s late wife, K. Puvaneswary @Manju, whose vision now lives on through their son’s management.
Trials That Tested Their Strength
Though Sri Ananda Bahwan stands today as a household name, its journey has been filled with trials and challenges. The growing competition among Indian restaurants, rising ingredient costs, and labour issues have all tested the family’s resilience.
“The biggest challenge has always been maintaining quality,” Harikrishnan said. “Costs rise, workers come and go, but customers still expect the same familiar taste. That’s the trust we must honour.”
He shared that the key to survival lies in innovation without compromising tradition constantly introducing new dishes that appeal to modern tastes, while keeping the soul of their banana-leaf dining experience intact.
Celebrating 34 Years of Legacy
What began as a young boy’s dream, inspired by the scent of curry from a mamak restaurant downstairs, has grown into a proud family legacy.
This year marks a special milestone on October 3, 2025, Sri Ananda Bahwan celebrates its 34th anniversary since it was founded on October 3, 1991.
From its humble beginnings in Butterworth, the restaurant has flourished into one of Malaysia’s most recognisable Indian dining brands one that continues to unite people of all backgrounds through the timeless comfort of good food, warm service, and authentic flavour.
“It’s been a long journey,” Harikrishnan said. “But through every challenge, every late night, and every plate served, we’re reminded that food has the power to bring people together and that’s what we’ve always stood for.”
From the fragrance of curry that once rose from a humble shophouse to a brand now woven into Malaysia’s culinary heritage, Sri Ananda Bahwan is more than just a restaurant.
It is a story of family, faith, and flavour, a testament to one family’s perseverance and a nation’s shared love for food served on a banana leaf. -MalayaDailyToday
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🍛 Sri Ananda Bahwan at a Glance
📅 Founded: October 3, 1991
🏠 First Outlet: Butterworth, Penang
👨👩👦 Founders: Datuk V. Harikrishnan & V. Selvaraj
🌿 Cuisine: Authentic South Indian Banana Leaf Meals
🍴 Signature Dishes: 3-in-1 Seafood Curry, Giant Tosai, Roti Tisu, Madras Coffee
👨🍳 Core Team: Over 300 staff across 10 branches
💚 Legacy: 34 Years of Family, Flavour & Faith
