KUALA LUMPUR – In the comforting steam of a humble bowl of curry mee, generations of Penangites found more than just a meal; they found warmth, tradition, and the quiet grace of a woman who dedicated her life to feeding both body and soul. On a day laced with bittersweet memory, Penang bids farewell to Madam Lim Kooi Lai, one half of the beloved “Air Itam Sister Curry Mee” duo, who passed away peacefully at the age of 91.
Since 1946, Madam Lim and her sister, Madam Lim Kooi Heang, stood side by side, ladling out their signature bowls from a modest stall in Air Itam. With every spoonful of spicy, coconut-rich broth, their curry mee became a symbol of resilience, simplicity, and unspoken love, especially during decades when the country itself was rebuilding.
It wasn’t just about noodles. It was about them. Their gentle smiles were the focal point. Their white hair neatly pinned back. Their eyes were filled with kindness. Their presence was a fixture in the morning routine of thousands, and their stall was a place where time paused and comfort simmered in every pot.
Even Michelin took notice. The sisters’ humble curry mee stall earned its place in the prestigious Michelin Guide, a nod not just to the taste, but to the heritage, consistency, and humanity behind each bowl.
Air Itam state assemblyman Joseph Ng Soon Siang, in paying tribute, wrote:
“Her warm smile, gentle greetings, and those bowls of curry noodles filled with love and heart have long become one of the most familiar and comforting memories for many of us. May she rest in peace.”
Social media too was flooded with heartfelt farewells, not only from food lovers but from Penangites who saw in her the spirit of a generation that built Malaysia from its roots. She wasn’t just a hawker; she was a cultural icon, a grandmother to all, and a quiet hero in an apron.
Her legacy now lives on through the younger generation, who continue to run the stall with the same love and dedication. But for many, it will never be quite the same without her warm voice and gentle presence behind the counter.
As we savour our next bowl of curry mee at Air Itam, let us remember Madam Lim not with tears but with gratitude for the decades of flavour, for the tradition she preserved, and for reminding us that sometimes the most extraordinary people are the ones quietly serving us love, one bowl at a time.
Rest in peace, Aunty. Penang will never forget you. -MalayaDailyToday
